Cocktails on a resort deck at sunset in the Maldives

CasaSur Palermo Review

Palermo's most sensible boutique: quiet street, rooftop pool, Frette linens and the barrio's cafes and parrillas all on foot.

By The Editors

Overview

Palermo is where Buenos Aires goes to eat, drink and dress well, and CasaSur Palermo is calibrated precisely to that neighbourhood. The 61-room boutique sits on Costa Rica, one of the barrio’s leafy side streets, close enough to the weekend crowds around Plaza Serrano to walk everywhere that matters and far enough to sleep properly. Under the jacarandas in November, when the pavements turn purple, the location is close to unbeatable.

Rooms are larger than the boutique label suggests, with king beds dressed in Frette linen, rainfall showers and balconies on the upper floors that look over Palermo’s low rooflines and treetops. The look is warm mid-century rather than design-hotel showy: leather chairs, timber, lamps from local makers. There is no full room service, the lobby bar covers the basics, which tells you the hotel expects you out among the parrillas and wine bars, as it should.

The rooftop is the trump card: a compact pool and sun deck that earns its keep from spring to autumn, with the hammam and sauna downstairs to sweat out the previous night’s malbec. Breakfast runs to proper medialunas and fresh juice, and the front desk’s restaurant instincts are sharp, which matters in a neighbourhood with this much choice. As a base for first-timers and returners alike, it is the sensible answer in Palermo: unshowy, well run and priced fairly for what Buenos Aires has become.

Palermo is where Buenos Aires goes to eat, drink and dress well, and CasaSur Palermo is calibrated precisely to that neighbourhood.

— Luxury Hotel Reviews

Why We Love It

Low-key and grown up, which in Palermo counts as a contrarian position. The lobby bar hums quietly in the evening, the rooftop is sociable without being a scene, and the guests, a mix of European couples, Brazilians and the odd wine-country detourist, treat it as a base rather than a destination. Staff are genuinely helpful with bookings, which matters in a barrio where the best tables go early.

Rooms & Suites

Bigger than the price implies, with king beds in Frette linen, decent desks, rainfall showers and blackout curtains that actually black out, useful in a city that eats at eleven. The mid-century styling, leather, timber, local lamps, wears well. Upper-floor rooms with balconies over the treetops are worth the small premium; rear rooms are the quietest. Suites add a proper sitting area.

Dining

Breakfast, yes: fresh medialunas, good coffee and juice pressed that morning. Beyond that, the ground-floor restaurant does capable Argentine-Mediterranean cooking, provoleta, empanadas, a competent steak, and the lobby bar covers a nightcap. But staying in for dinner in Palermo would be perverse; the front desk will get you into parrillas and wine bars you would not find alone.

Spa & Wellness

A hammam and sauna rather than a full spa, plus a compact gym, and honestly that is the right size for a hotel whose guests are out twelve hours a day. The rooftop pool is the real wellness programme: small, sun-soaked and blissful after a morning walking Recoleta or the Rosedal. In-room massages can be arranged with notice.

Location

Walk to Plaza Serrano's weekend market, then loop the Rosedal gardens before the heat. El Ateneo Grand Splendid, the theatre-turned-bookshop, is a short taxi away, and the MALBA's Latin American collection earns its queue. Book the parrilla the day you land; the good ones fill by Thursday.

The Verdict

Couples and solo travellers who want Buenos Aires at street level: coffee, bookshops, steak, wine, tango at a milonga rather than a dinner show. It also suits longer stays, the neighbourhood makes self-sufficiency easy. If you want grand-hotel services, full room service and a concierge desk in white gloves, stay in Recoleta and visit Palermo; everyone else should just stay here.