Modern villa mirrored in a still infinity pool at sunset

Amanoi Review

Vietnam's most complete coastal retreat, provided you treat isolation as a feature rather than a flaw.

By The Editors

Overview

Amanoi’s trick is scale. The resort occupies a promontory inside Nui Chua National Park on Vietnam’s south-central coast, and its pavilions are scattered so sparsely across the headland that from the water you can barely find them. Opened in 2013, it remains the country’s most serious luxury retreat, a good hour’s drive from Cam Ranh airport and mercifully far from everything else.

Accommodation splits between guest pavilions, pool villas and sprawling residences, all in a pared-back vocabulary of timber, stone and curved grey-tiled roofs that nod to Vietnamese temple architecture. Ocean-view pavilions earn their premium at sunrise. The centre of gravity is the cliff-top restaurant and the spa beside a lotus lake: hydrotherapy suites, dedicated yoga and Pilates pavilions, and two wellness villas with private spa houses for the fully committed.

Days divide between the private beach club on its half-moon cove, snorkelling the bay’s reefs and guided hikes into the national park, which shelters some of Vietnam’s rarest primates. Be clear-eyed about the trade: dining options are limited, the nearest settlement is a fishing village, and evenings are quiet to the point of silence. If that reads as a warning, stay in Danang. If it reads as the entire point, nowhere on this coast does it better.

Amanoi's trick is scale. The resort occupies a promontory inside Nui Chua National Park on Vietnam's south-central coast, and its pavilions are scattered so sparsely across the headland that from the water you can barely find them.

— Luxury Hotel Reviews

Why We Love It

Serene bordering on solemn, softened by staff who are warmer than the architecture. Guests scatter across the headland by day, to the beach club, the spa lake or the yoga pavilion, and surface at the cliff-top restaurant at dusk. There is no scene to dress for, and a ringing phone feels faintly indecent. Most people arrive stressed and visibly decompress within forty-eight hours. Honeymooners and burnt-out executives are the core clientele.

Rooms & Suites

Pavilions are generous, light and calm: platform beds facing the view, stone bathrooms with double vanities, and terraces made for doing nothing at all. Ocean pavilions on the ridge get sunrise over Vinh Hy Bay and are worth the stretch over the garden category. Pool villas add serious privacy, while the residences work as staffed compounds for families. Everything is immaculately kept; nothing shouts.

Dining

The main restaurant handles Vietnamese cooking with real finesse, the beach club grills the morning's catch, and in-villa dining fills the gaps, which matters because there is no realistic alternative nearby. Order Vietnamese: the pho and clay-pot fish outclass the international dishes. Private dinners set up on the rocks or the beach are expensive and worth doing exactly once.

Spa & Wellness

The reason many guests choose Amanoi. The spa sits beside a lotus lake with hydrotherapy suites, a hammam and treatment rooms opening to the water, plus daily yoga and Pilates in dedicated pavilions. Multi-day wellness immersions are programmed seriously rather than as brochure decoration, and the two wellness villas with private spa houses take it further. Even sceptics should try the signature massage after a national park hike.

Location

Take the boat across Vinh Hy Bay early, when the fishing fleet returns, and snorkel the reef before the wind rises. The drive south through Nui Chua's coastal desert towards Phan Rang's Cham towers makes a fine half-day out.

The Verdict

Couples marking occasions, wellness devotees on immersion programmes, and travellers who have done Vietnam's cities and want the country at its quietest. Families fit comfortably in the residences, though teenagers may mutiny by day three. Nightlife seekers, shoppers and anyone who needs a choice of restaurants each evening should be honest with themselves and book elsewhere.